The Evolution of the Cheongsam: Its Glory Fades – 1970s and 1980s

| Cheongsam gains niche appeal, exuding elegance

From the mid-1960s onwards, the Western-style ready-to-wear manufacturing industry flourished, with a wide variety of styles and materials available. Western-style dresses and jeans became the go-to choices for young women. The trend of Westernization in women's clothing was unstoppable. In addition, with the faster pace of society in the 1970s and the emphasis on efficiency, choosing fabrics and having long gowns custom-made was indeed a luxury and time-consuming process. Thus, the golden age of long gowns came to an end.

Although the golden age of the cheongsam is gone and it is now only loved by a niche audience, lacking widespread public support, its rarity has made it more valuable. The Hong Kong cheongsam has not lost its allure; on the contrary, it has become even more exquisite, with its price steadily rising. In the 1970s and 80s, the cheongsam remained the first choice for mature women attending formal and celebratory occasions. Besides patronizing familiar tailors, high-end chain stores and domestic product companies were also popular places to order custom-made cheongsams. Domestic product companies began selling ready-made cheongsams from mainland China, but high-quality ones were not cheap. As the price difference between custom-made cheongsams and Western-style ready-made clothing widened, those who could afford to wear cheongsams as everyday wear were mostly women with better economic conditions. Therefore, the cheongsam, no longer common, gradually became a status symbol for the upper-middle class. In addition, there are many styles of custom-made cheongsams. Silk companies and domestic product companies only sell more expensive cheongsams and do not accept customers to make custom-made ones with their own materials. In addition, the cost of making the cheongsams is quite high, making the price of cheongsams even more expensive and deterring the general public.

In the 1960s, the simple cheongsam was no longer mainstream; it was replaced by garments with exquisite craftsmanship. Silk and satin were highly popular, and lace and piping made a comeback. Because the precious fabrics could only be dry-cleaned, the cheongsam appeared even more elegant. At the same time, Hong Kong's cheongsam school uniform skirts were revitalized under the influence of Western clothing culture. Even today, more than ten Hong Kong secondary schools still use cheongsams as the uniform for girls, and there are also many supporters of the long gown in higher education institutions. Some female scholars who have studied at prestigious overseas universities prefer the understated yet feminine cheongsam to replace fashionable Western suits. Elegant figures in cheongsams can be seen everywhere on campus, showcasing both the scholarly air of talented women and the image of contemporary scholars, preserving a warm and refined traditional Chinese character for the international academic community.

The Art and Wisdom of Dressing

In the 1970s, education in Hong Kong became increasingly widespread, with equal educational opportunities for boys and girls, leading to competition between women and men. In 1971, female civil servants successfully won equal pay for equal work with their male counterparts, setting a precedent for other industries. As women's status rose, their dress code also changed. A small number of women in leadership positions chose long gowns to showcase their personal image and taste, appearing more confident and approachable when attending public events or banquets with numerous male colleagues. In the early 1980s, many senior female executives commissioned cheongsams from top-tier Shanghai tailors, with production costs often exceeding one thousand yuan, sometimes even reaching over two thousand yuan, while the average monthly salary for a recent university graduate was only around two thousand yuan. They are well-versed in "power dressing," understanding that clothing is a symbol of status and position, and aspiring to project a leadership image in front of others. Working women are often strong-willed, and the understated elegance of the cheongsam achieves a balance of strength and gentleness, showcasing women's wisdom in dressing.

| Film and Television Entertainment Continues the Legend of the Cheongsam

Hong Kong's economy boomed in the 1970s and 80s, and the quality of life for its citizens improved, leading to a corresponding increase in demand for film and entertainment. This period marked a new phase for Hong Kong cinema, with local Mandarin films giving way to the revitalized Cantonese films. With the widespread availability of television, the general public could enjoy free video entertainment. Film and music artists, with their keen sense of fashion, wore cheongsams as formal attire for stage performances, film and television appearances, and other formal occasions, echoing the fashion tastes of famous film stars from the 1920s and 30s and continuing the clothing tradition originating from Shanghai. Many female artists love to wear cheongsams for album covers and promotional posters. Veteran actresses of Cantonese films and famous Cantonese opera singers are particularly fond of cheongsams, which shows that cheongsams are highly regarded in the film and television entertainment industry.

The cheongsam is a signature garment of the Miss Hong Kong pageant. As early as 1946, the Miss Hong Kong pageant, held at the Ritz Nightclub in North Point, included a cheongsam segment. Since Television Broadcasts Limited (TVB) took over organizing the "Miss Hong Kong Pageant" in 1973, the pageant has included both casual and evening cheongsams, perfectly showcasing the beauty of Eastern women and allowing the public to appreciate the elegance and traditional Chinese culture presented by the cheongsam. Furthermore, in the "Miss Asia Pageant" held by ATV since 1985, and the "Miss Hong Kong Industrial Exhibition Pageant" which has been held for decades, the cheongsam remains an important element. In addition, many contestants representing Hong Kong in international beauty pageants wear the cheongsam as a national costume, highlighting its unique charm and irreplaceable status.